Once the “worms” are active there are several symptoms or signs that you may need to visit a vet. Watch for unexplained weight loss, diarrhea, anemia, or blood in the feces.  If any of these signs are present, do not just go out and buy a broad spectrum deworming agent.

There are many types of worms that can affect a dog but a specific diagnosis is required in order to accurately take care of the problem.  There isn’t a universal medication that will take care of the problem.  In fact, if your dog is being affected by heartworms or another type of infestation unrelated to worms, the poisons in the medication that are designed to eradicate worms could do serious harm to your dog.  Do not assume your dog has worms when it is suffering from an illness you can’t explain.  Go to your vet to determine a safe course of action so that your dog will get the help and medications it needs to be healthy.

The National Cutting Horse Association has notified members attending the Western National Championships in Ogden, Utah on April 30 thru May 8, 2011 of possible exposure to the severe neurologic form of Equine Herpes Virus (EHV-1). Horses at that event may have been exposed to this virus and subsequently spread the infection to other horses. Confirmed and suspected cases have been found in Utah, Colorado, Idaho and other states. While the true extent of this disease outbreak is uncertain, there is clearly a very significant elevated risk at this time.

This virus is easily spread by aerosol (airborne) transmission, horse-to-horse contact and contact with nasal secretions on equipment, tack, feed and other surfaces. People can spread the virus by means of contaminated hands, clothing, shoes and vehicles.

Owners of horses who participated in the Ogden, Utah event should notify their veterinarians and isolate and monitor their horses for clinical signs of disease. The EHV-1 organism spreads quickly and the neurologic form of the virus can reach high morbidity (sick) and mortality (death) rates. The incubation period (time of exposure to the illness) of EHV-1 is typically 2-14 days. Horses with severe clinical signs may shed the virus for as long as 28 days if they survive, and are thought to present the greatest danger for spreading the disease.

Clinical signs may include nasal discharge, lack of coordination, hind-end weakness, recumbency, lethargy, urine dribbling and diminished tail tone. There is no specific treatment for EHV-1. Support treatment may include intravenous fluids, anti-inflammatory and anti-viral drugs and other appropriate supportive treatment.

Currently there is no equine vaccine that has a label claim for protection against the neurological strain of the virus. Immediate separation and isolation of suspected cases and implementation of appropriate biosecurity measures are key elements for disease control. (Do not share equipment among horses such as water/feed buckets, bridles or equipment. People can transfer from horse to horse via their hands and clothing. They should wash their hands after handling one horse and before handling another. They should change their clothes and footwear after working with a sick horse. Wearing gloves and using disinfectant to sanitize footwear can help minimize the risk of people spreading the virus between animals.) Optimally, a person who takes care of a sick horse should not work with healthy horses. The disease is not transmittable to humans.

Some articles recommend that you boost your rhino vaccine using a modified live form unless a mare is pregnant. If the modified live form is not available, they recommend that you boost your flu/rhino vaccine. If mares are pregnant, some articles also recommend boosting the pneumabort vaccine.

Should you have further questions regarding EHV-1, contact your local veterinarian.

Current information includes:  36 Idaho horses were on the premises during the NCHA cutting in Ogden.  2 horses have been euthanized after showing severe neurological sign associated with the disease, one had tested positive for EHV-1 and the other did not have complete tests. 13 cases are suspected, are voluntary quarantined, and are being monitored.

If you are considering traveling interstate with your horses, please consult with your vet to ensure you have the appropriate paperwork. Wyoming has specific restrictions in place . We can contact any other state should the information be needed.

The following website will also give you more information.  http://www.agri.idaho.gov/  or  http://www.aaep.org

Does your trusty mount “eat like a horse” but still lose weight? Does he slobber his grain all over the ground? Does the bit irritate his mouth? Then he may well need some equine dentistry!

A healthy mouth is crucial to the condition and well being of a horse. Equines are like most of the grazers of the earth: they have very long grinding teeth embedded in their gums that slowly grow down into the mouth as they are worn away by the constant chewing of grass or hay. The wear pattern is not always even, so sharp points, hooks, or uneven alignment often occurs. This makes it difficult for the horse to chew properly and can cause sores on the cheeks, gums or tongue.

If their teeth don’t grind up the feed into small enough pieces, the feed often cannot be digested properly. Painful abdominal problems called “colic” can follow, which can be potentially fatal. Weight loss and poor body and coat condition can also result from tooth problems.

A veterinary dental exam checks for many tooth problems. Mild uneven teeth can be “floated” or rasped smooth by special instruments called “dental floats” which is called a “dental balance”. If the teeth have more severe problems such as hooks, or uneven wear conditions called “step mouth” or “wave mouth”, motorized dental tools are used to restore a smooth grinding surface. As you might guess, sedation is usually necessary to get a horse to allow such procedures to be performed. Restraining stocks and special equipment to hold the mouth open are also used.

Young horses often have small teeth left over from their prehistoric ancestors that are called “wolf teeth” because they are much smaller than the horses other teeth and are about the size and shape of a wolf or a large dog’s tooth. They can cause problems in bit training because the bit can pinch the gum up against the wolf tooth causing pain. For this reason these unnecessary teeth are often removed by the veterinarian before training begins. If the other teeth are sharp on the surfaces near the bit, the veterinarian can also smooth out their edges to prevent gum irritation by the bit. This is called a “bit set”.

So to keep your steed in tip-top shape, don’t forget his mouth! He’ll thank you with better use of that expensive feed, less belly aches, and less problems with the bit. He might even give you a big grin and a horse laugh, too!

Upper Valley Veterinary Clinic in Rexburg, ID is ready and able for any equine dental work. If you have questions or need to set up an appointment, please give us a call at 208-356-4271

or Happy St. Patrick’s Day Cookies

Your meat-loving dog will sit on command if you serve this easy-to-make recipe.  Hey, where is it written that cookies must be sweet to taste good?  (This recipe was developed and tested by a veterinarian.)

• 2 1/2 cups whole wheat flour
• 2 small jars beef-flavored baby food
• 6 Tbsp beef gravy (low-sodium)
• 1 egg
• 1/2 cup nonfat dry milk
• 1/2 cup water
• 1 Tbsp brown sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Combine all ingredients in a large mixing bowl.  Lightly pat your hands with flour and shape the mix into a big ball.  Flatten the ball using a floured rolling pin.  Use a cookie cutter to cut the dough into shapes (try a shamrock for St. Patrick’s Day).  Place the cookies on a greased cookie sheet.  Bake for 25 minutes or until lightly browned.  Allow the cookies to cool before serving and store them in an air-tight container in the refrigerator.

Sometimes a pet owner will ask the groomer to “comb out the mats”.  This is comparable to when you remove excessive “snarls” from your own hair.  It can be very painful to your pet.  Routine brushing by the pet owner removes dead hair, spreads oils and helps keep unpleasant odors away.  Cats that are regularly brushed have less problems with hair balls.  During spring shedding, it is important for the pet owner to brush their pets more often.

Owners should regularly check their pets for ear sensitivity, discharge and odor.  Pets who shake or tilt their head or circle may have an infected ear that needs treatment by their vet.  Groomers will pluck the hair inside the ear to help your pet stay healthy and problem free.

Overgrown nails can deform your pet’s paws or impede a dog’s gait.  Keeping nails trimmed helps prevent damage to furniture, carpets and you.  When nails get too long, it causes foot pain and often lameness.  Don’t forget to check the nail on your dog’s dewclaws if they have them.

As pets are bathed, you need to use a shampoo that is formulated for pet care.  Human shampoo can be harmful to your pet as it dries out the skin and destroys natural oils.  Make sure you do not get soap directly into eyes, ears or the nose of your pet during bathing.  It is important that you rinse and rinse to remove all soap from your pet’s coat and skin.  Your groomer may use a conditioner to help improve your pet’s coat or to lessen shedding or snarling.  Good grooming is a year round responsibility.  Your veterinarian and groomer can help you keep your pet healthy and happy.

The key to survival during a disaster, crisis or emergency is to be as prepared as possible beforehand.  Take the time to make a plan and assemble an emergency kit for you and your pet.

Disaster Supply Checklist for Pets

You need to prepare supplies for your pet.  Keep everything accessible and stored in sturdy containers such as duffle bags that can be easily carried.

Suggested items to include in your pet disaster kit should include:

• Food and water for at least 5 days for each pet. Bring a dish for water and don’t forget a can opener if needed.
• Medications & Medical Records stored in a waterproof container and First Aid Supplies.
• Cat litter box, litter, and garbage bags to collect all pets’ waste.
• Sturdy leashes, harnesses, and carriers to transport pets safely to ensure that your pets can’t escape.  Carriers should be large enough for the animal to stand comfortably, turn around and lie down. Be sure to have a secure catch on the door and remember blankets or towels for bedding and warmth.
• Current photo and description. This will help others identify your pets in case you become separated and it can act as proof that they are yours.
• Pet beds and toys.  If they are easy to take along they can help reduce stress.
• Information about your pet’s feeding schedules and medical conditions.
• Vaccination records in case you have to board your pets or place them in foster care.
• The name, phone number and address of your veterinarian.
• ID tags that are up-to-date and that includes your cell number.

If and when you evacuate, take your pets with you.  Animals left behind in a disaster can easily be injured, lost or killed. Find a safe place ahead of time where you can leave your pets because most evacuation shelters do not accept pets unless they are a service animal.  Don’t wait until disaster strikes to obtain the necessary equipment and help that your pets may need to survive.

It is important to be patient with your pets after a disaster.  Getting them back into their normal routines as soon as possible will help.  If your pet seems to be having health problems after surviving a disaster, get help from your veterinarian.

Make your pets feel special with a rag chew toy.  These toys are simple to make.  Make a few extra and donate them to your local animal shelter!

Materials Needed:  scraps of fabric

For a dog toy, tear three strips of fabric 12″ x 43″.  Braid tightly and tie a knot about 2″ from each end.  Tear the tail ends into narrower strips.

For a cat toy, tear three strips 3″ x 36″.  Braid tightly and tie a knot about 2″ from each end.  Tear the tail ends into narrower strips.

Many clinics now perform spaying and neutering at about four months (16 weeks) of age.  Newer generations of anesthetic drugs allow us to safely do surgeries at a younger age.  When you spay or neuter while young, it is less stressful to the animal than waiting until they reach sexual maturity.  Many clinics now offer laser surgery which reduces post-surgical pain and speeds recovery time.

If you find that your pet is unexpectedly in their first heat cycle, surgery can still be done but it is more complicated, risky, and expensive.  If you schedule the surgery at four months of age, you can avoid the possibility of ending up with a young pet in heat or pregnant inappropriately.  Should you choose to have surgery performed during this time, your veterinarian can give you recommendations, advice, and aftercare instructions about surgery.

There are some definite advantages to spaying or neutering early.  Besides avoiding the risk of pregnancy, future cancer of the mammary glands are reduced by up to 80%.  Male animals are less aggressive and less likely to be injured while roaming or fighting.  Urine spraying to mark territory is also reduced.

Spay and neuter surgeries can be performed on pets older than four to six months.  The advantage of early surgery are past, but the surgery can still be performed safely.  Animals that have been used for breeding are often spayed or neutered when they are older and no more offspring are desired.  In some cases, such as when there is cancer or infection of the reproductive organs, surgery must be performed on an older pet to save its life.

The best time to spay or neuter a pet may vary with the individual animal or its circumstances and health status.  It is best to have the animal examined and to consult with your veterinarian about the best time to have surgery performed.

Your pet’s bad breath could be more than a smelly annoyance; it might signify a serious health risk with the potential to damage not only the animal’s teeth and gums, but its internal organs as well.  Bacteria combined with saliva and food debris between the tooth and gum can cause plaque formation which can turn to tartar.  The resulting pockets of gum infection called periodontitis can lead to receding gums and early tooth loss.  The resulting inflammation can cause disease of the heart, liver, and kidneys.  According to the American Veterinary Dental Society, 80% of dogs and 70% of cats develop oral disease by age three, causing bad breath, changes in chewing habits, pawing at the mouth, and depression.

Regular visits to the veterinarian should include a complete oral health check up.  If tartar is diagnosed, just like their owners, the pet’s teeth often need to be cleaned and polished.  Veterinary clinics use ultrasonic cleaners, dental instruments, and polishers.  Sedation is usually needed to relax the patient and allow a thorough job to be done.  Modern anesthetics are very safe, but of course not totally without risk.  A blood test can be run to help predict a problem the pet might have.  The type and dose of anesthetic can be adjusted to the animal’s condition.  Using these precautions, we have very few problems with anesthesia in our dental patients.

Brushing a pet’s teeth daily has been shown to help prevent the formation of plaque and tartar.  However, some plaque and tartar still builds up under the gum so regular exams and cleanings are still needed.  Special diets such as Science Diet t/d can be fed that reduces the deposits of food and bacteria on the teeth.  This can, in turn, reduce the formation of plaque and tartar.  This food can be used as a treat or fed as the pet’s complete balanced diet.  Visit with your veterinarian should you have questions regarding your pet’s dental health.

THE TREE – The natural smell of a Christmas tree attracts pets. But remember that needles (even artificial ones) are indigestible. Keep your pet away from the tree. Artificial trees have small pieces of plastic or aluminum that can break off and be swallowed, causing intestinal blockage or irritation to the mouth. Don’t use preservatives in the stand water. They can be toxic if consumed by a thirsty pet. Lights can get very hot. Remove them from the lower branches of the tree so they won’t burn your pet. Tinsel has sharp edges that can cause cuts in the mouth. Don’t use edible ornaments or fragile, easily breakable glass decorations to trim the tree. Don’t use angel hair as it is made of spun glass. Electrical cords should be taped firmly to walls or floors. Wire ornament hooks can easily snag an ear or a tail or if swallowed can lodge in the throat or intestines. Fashioning loops of yarn, ribbon or light weight twine will help you avoid this problem.

THE FOOD- Alcohol and chocolate are toxic – keep them out of a pet’s reach. A single ounce of pure chocolate can be lethal to a small dog. Dark and unsweetened baking chocolate are most dangerous. Turkey bones left in an accessible place are almost irresistible to pets but they can lodge in an animal’s throat or block the intestinal tract. Remove leftovers from the table and don’t leave garbage where animals can get to it.

INDOOR HAZARDS- Certain holiday plants are a menace to dogs. Poinsettias irritate the stomach and eyes. Berries of the Jerusalem Cherry are toxic. Holly, Mistletoe, Amaryllis, Chrysanthemum, Rhododendron and Winter Broom as well as Christmas Berry, Cherry, Pepper and Rose can all cause problems to pets that ingest them. Liquid potpourri can cause terrible burns in an animal’s mouth should it be ingested. Space heaters, wood-burning stoves and fireplaces can cause burns if animals get too close. Candles are a great attraction for pets, but don’t leave them alone in a room with a menorah or candelabra blazing as the swish of a tail can be disastrous.

OUTDOOR HAZARDS- Even a small amount of antifreeze is extremely toxic. It has a sweet taste that attracts animals but it can cause permanent kidney damage or death. The lethal dose is 1 teaspoon per two pounds of body weight. Don’t let animals drink from puddles, and make sure to clean paws when a pet comes in from the outdoors. Don’t leave your pet alone in the car while you do last-minute shopping or errands. Carbon monoxide from an engine left running is dangerous. Rock salt can irritate a pet’s footpads. Make sure you rinse and dry them carefully. To soften them and prevent cracking, smear foot pads with a small amount of petroleum jelly.

If your pet is showing any signs of distress or you suspect your pet is seriously ill, CONTACT YOUR VETERINARIAN immediately.